Coming back to Khao-Lak

So after I made my escape from the skyscrapers and mammoth shopping malls of Phuket, I got back to Khao Lak's peace and took a deep breath. Nyi Nyi of course greeted me with a smile and said my room was still there for me.

Next was also waiting for the proof of life (ie, surviving Phuket) and I then made all my travel arrangements with him for returning to Bangkok and going on the 'James Bond' tour that my German friends Stefan and Christoph had given thumbs up on. Next worked his magic and got me on a fantastic tour...

costing less than most advertised ones at 1700 baht, I was collected promptly at the promised time outside my 'hotel' by Albert, a most informative multilingual guide, and 2 other German couples. We of course hit the island known as James Bond island, owing to the filming of 'The Man with the Golden Gun' there, and wouldn't you know, you can even get a copy. Following this was the sea canoe - I had one with a guide to myself, and it wasn't long before we rowed off that he broke into a round of 'Hotel California' and we were off; Oasis, Joan Jett, 'Proud Mary' and many others. It garnered some attention from the other groups in the sea canoes who were doing the standard sightseeing to watch us row by belting out tune after tune.

I would have liked more time in the Muslim sea village at which we ate a fantastic lunch (being on a tight budget my food largely consisted of 25 baht noodle soop from street stalls so I was in culinary heaven), but in compensation we had more time at the cave temple, with monkeys cavorting in front of it, myself drawing a most unfortunate fortune (tho really most things in it were not applicable) and attempting to undo it by having myself blessed by a monk.

All in all, a success and I would recommend for sure booking with Khao Lak Asia Tours, and try to get Albert as your guide. He proved to be a real cracker of a person, having done the Southeast Asia route, and knowing many people in town he turned up at this (rather unfortunate) night in the Happy Snapper, sitting in his seat and dancing the night away (I may also add, I estimated Albert to be in his 60's..chronologically anyway!). Next and I were at it again with the Singha, trying to promise to take it easy for my last night celebration the following night, but yuhhhh.....

However it was not a mere hangover that took me down the next day. Rather, an extremely nasty stomach bug manifested itself early evening, and even a trip to the pharmacy proved futile (and if that is the case in Thailand you know you have problems). Next took one look at me the following day and off to the clinic it was. it took 3 injections, very strong antibiotics and about 5 other medications to put me right again. One also knows its bad when the doctor asks if you have insurance! Thankfully, I do!

What is even worse is being told, in a Thai seaside town - that you cannot eat 1) fried foods. 2) spicy foods. 3) seafood. throw in the fact I know lactose does you no favours in these situations, and Nyi Nyi telling me to stay away from fruit.. I was literally on a bread and water diet. Tho oddly seemed to have gained weight as was asked before massage yesterday if I were pregnant. again! (flashback: Istanbul's Grand Bazaar).

2 days later I managed it though (with a bus showing up bizarrely 15 minutes early, sending Nyi Nyi and a random taxi driver into Olympic sprint mode as the bus barrelled past, my luggage in tow!). All in all, Khao Lak is unfortunately going the way of many places in thailand with the development and I fear will soon be not much different than its neighbor Phuket. Gone are the simple beach huts, and post-Tsunami production included only pricey bungalows. But in the meantime, I definitely can recommend the following:

1. Noi Travel (of course I am biased here since that is where Next works, but at least you can know he will give you a fair price and do his best, and was stellar with all my arrangements and has gone out of his way for other guests).

2. The rooms behind the southernmost 7-11 - I believe the company is actually called 'Khao Lak Tour Company'. simple, clean functional rooms at a very reasonable price in a good location.

3. Khao Lak Asia Tour company - for the James Bond tours, and most likely others

4. Medsye - I did my Similan islands trip with them. Very well organized, as they should be - they are the original operator to the beautiful Similans.