(and Yoga Barn)
the above is the name of, oddly enough, a cafe in Ubud and a place where i've gotten a lot more than I'd ever have expected.
I was reasonably certain I would be treated to some great healthy food, something I looked forward to as I struggle a bit in my every day life. Mission: accomplished.
However the real treat has been the great people I continuously come across there, and also at the Yoga Barn. I've visited both every day and am truly amazed by the amount of interesting, intelligent and grounded folk I've come across. I guess first off was my inaugural meal during which I met Australian doctor Damian, who has left his job and is spending time in Ubud to write his book. Had a great chat with him over our dinners in Kafe.
next would be Leishea, who was more a random meeting in a convenience store that i'd taken shelter in due to the heavens falling (ie, rain!!). Maybe one of the precious few times I was immensely glad it had chucked down with rain, I had a wonderful evening with her, as we hi fived each other on having similar travel story.
I was wandering aimlessly one night in Kafe searching for a seat when 2 lovely Dutch ladies asked me to join them. Unfortunately even if I were able to remember their names, I would never be able to write them properly. Their passion being transport of the 2 wheeled variety, they were peddling all around Bali for 3 weeks and had great advice to give on where to go. I saw them again one afternoon and they treated me to a ginger tea before taking off to get some late day Temple photos, and ultimately on home to Holland.
then I met 'my other half' - I was just about to leave Kafe in fact when Mitsu asked if the seat was free. We quickly discovered that we were both half Japanese, though hers is her mothers side,and mine my father's. We also both live in Japan, and have both lived in Germany. Incidently, she also checked into my old guesthouse the day i checked out! She has been excellent company here,speaking on all manner of topics and its so nice to bounce thoughts about living in Japan as a foreigner to someone else who gets it. She's also full of energy and bountiful interests, including being a dance performer, taking Balinese language lessons, dance and art classes and the list goes on...
Through ecstatic dance I met Shervin (listed earlier), and a random dinner with Suzie, another Dutch girl who lives in Thailand, Melissa, a fast talking bubbly New Yorker with a mistaken half Japanese identity (yet she's actually Puerto Rican, he he), Rodolfo, a lovely guy hailing from Mexico who had taught the ecstatic dance session earlier in the week and is currently observing a vow of silence, but his wonderful smile and expression helped him communicate easily with us all. He was the fly on the wall for all our girly talk, as the other members including Mitsu and myself. We also had a lively discussion to help Rodolfo with his budding business plan for accomodation here in Ubud. I wish him great success with it.
We have a plan to meet tonight.
And last but most certainly not least, Valerie of Belgium who is taking some time out here in Bali and diving into a number of courses. She is a yoga teacher and healer, with an amazing energy about her and our shared dinner at Kafe after Chakra meditation was filled with light and laughter.
I am incredibly blessed and lucky to have come across these amazing people, at a time I probably needed it the most.
Thank you all! and I love Kafe!
08 August, 2010
07 August, 2010
Strange Brew
So, as I noted earlier, the mission to find Wayan the healer was a success and dead easy. All thanks to another commonly read book known as the Lonely Planet, which in this case was a burden and a blessing.
I say this because (i'm starting with the burden bit) there is a small text box in the Bali and Lombok book entitled "That Damn Book", referring of course to "Eat, Pray, Love". and ya, I get it. especially if you live here it's hard when a place gets heaps of publicity and suddenly tourists are traipsing through town all looking to re-enact it. However what I didn't care for in that text was it being yet another piece of media portraying middle age women in a negative light and generalizing us all.
Sure, there will be some who have come hoping for the same fairy tale type ending Elizabeth Gilbert had, but there are also heaps of us who haven't. "That Damn Book" refers to asking a mere 2 residents and those are their thoughts, and saying maybe these women have had too much yoga. Forgive me for not seeing how something so harmless and helpful for people - female, and male - can be seen so negatively. But then again I shouldn't expect much from the same person who wrote about Wayan's ability to counteract a Bintang dinner.
And ah yes, lest we forget the part where single middle age women are all desperately trying to find "Mr. Right". or in this case a carbon copy of the character "Felipe". again, some are, but tons aren't. and for those who are, so what? Whatever happened to, live and let live? If someone wants to come to Bali looking for love, so be it. It may be a bit far fetched hoping for Wayan to mix a magical love potion mind, but each to their own.
And my own - I went to Wayan for help with gastro and circulation issues that western medicine has failed to address for me. Hardly the stuff of romantic dreamers. I'm not here, or anywhere else looking for a knight in shining armour (or shining credit card for that matter) because I've got my own money, friends and adventures. So no, we are not all sad desperate Elizabeth Gilbert wannabes and FYI, I was here years ago - long before that book came out, long before she even came here doing the research for it. I loved Ubud then and was more than happy to come back under any circumstances. knowing the name of a healer from that book was an added bonus.
the blessing bit: at least lp did include Wayan's address. Et voila.
Wayan pinpointed my issues without me saying anything and my session with her was great, rejuvenating and informative in terms of my health and a way to go forward in taking better care of myself. I got all kinds of funky medicine, putting paid credit to my belief, the worse it tastes, the better it works (as I've found with Chinese medicine)
My session is not for the timid however and if lying naked save for a sliver of sarong with 4 Balinese guys scrubbing, bending and tweaking you is something you'd find awkward, then maybe pass on by.
I say this because (i'm starting with the burden bit) there is a small text box in the Bali and Lombok book entitled "That Damn Book", referring of course to "Eat, Pray, Love". and ya, I get it. especially if you live here it's hard when a place gets heaps of publicity and suddenly tourists are traipsing through town all looking to re-enact it. However what I didn't care for in that text was it being yet another piece of media portraying middle age women in a negative light and generalizing us all.
Sure, there will be some who have come hoping for the same fairy tale type ending Elizabeth Gilbert had, but there are also heaps of us who haven't. "That Damn Book" refers to asking a mere 2 residents and those are their thoughts, and saying maybe these women have had too much yoga. Forgive me for not seeing how something so harmless and helpful for people - female, and male - can be seen so negatively. But then again I shouldn't expect much from the same person who wrote about Wayan's ability to counteract a Bintang dinner.
And ah yes, lest we forget the part where single middle age women are all desperately trying to find "Mr. Right". or in this case a carbon copy of the character "Felipe". again, some are, but tons aren't. and for those who are, so what? Whatever happened to, live and let live? If someone wants to come to Bali looking for love, so be it. It may be a bit far fetched hoping for Wayan to mix a magical love potion mind, but each to their own.
And my own - I went to Wayan for help with gastro and circulation issues that western medicine has failed to address for me. Hardly the stuff of romantic dreamers. I'm not here, or anywhere else looking for a knight in shining armour (or shining credit card for that matter) because I've got my own money, friends and adventures. So no, we are not all sad desperate Elizabeth Gilbert wannabes and FYI, I was here years ago - long before that book came out, long before she even came here doing the research for it. I loved Ubud then and was more than happy to come back under any circumstances. knowing the name of a healer from that book was an added bonus.
the blessing bit: at least lp did include Wayan's address. Et voila.
Wayan pinpointed my issues without me saying anything and my session with her was great, rejuvenating and informative in terms of my health and a way to go forward in taking better care of myself. I got all kinds of funky medicine, putting paid credit to my belief, the worse it tastes, the better it works (as I've found with Chinese medicine)
My session is not for the timid however and if lying naked save for a sliver of sarong with 4 Balinese guys scrubbing, bending and tweaking you is something you'd find awkward, then maybe pass on by.
05 August, 2010
Getting a Groove On and Stalker Dogs
well, mission accomplished (from previous entry). details to follow...
Tuesday night I finally got an opportunity to seriously dance it out when I got my 'Ecstatic Dance' groove on. This was a class offered by the Yoga Barn, where I'm doing my yoga classes here in Ubud and it was nothing short of fantastic. Anything goes, check your inhibitions at the door. For myself, living amongst a somewhat suppressed society, it was like having a bolt of lightening full of good energy hit me. Our leader had a great energy about him, as did the other people in the room, and I had a great little chat with Shervin, fellow English teacher and scribe (though unlike me, he's a poet ;-)). fantastic finish to the day.
Well, almost. earlier in the day after I found Wayan the healer down the same street as Bali Buddha, I was caught out in a rainstorm and took shelter in a nearby convenience store and fell instantly into conversation with the store clerk and an English lass called Leishea, and we were off. Throwing travel stories and tidbacks back and forth at warp speed, eventually finishing with a plan to meet later in the evening.
We continued where we left off over crispy duck at the Bebek Bengil restaurant, who let us stay on our cushions long after closing. Leishea was a solo female traveler as well, which are always refreshing to meet. She's on a longer trip through Southeast Asia and we swapped stories about the region, moaned about air conditioning and after being slightly creeped out by the 'security' guards we left, to a deserted street save for some dogs. One black dog followed us relentlessly, stopping when we did and mimicking our detours. Even after we hitched a ride with a random local on his moped the dog followed the moped and still circled the gates of Leishea's guesthouse! Hiding out there for a bit was the only thing that got rid of it, mind you it was replaced by a more placid looking dog. I wasn't fooled though by its froufrou appearance, but thankfully it lacked the persistence of its black dog counterpart. Kinda creepy...and only seems to happen late at night. I went home much earlier the following night....
Tuesday night I finally got an opportunity to seriously dance it out when I got my 'Ecstatic Dance' groove on. This was a class offered by the Yoga Barn, where I'm doing my yoga classes here in Ubud and it was nothing short of fantastic. Anything goes, check your inhibitions at the door. For myself, living amongst a somewhat suppressed society, it was like having a bolt of lightening full of good energy hit me. Our leader had a great energy about him, as did the other people in the room, and I had a great little chat with Shervin, fellow English teacher and scribe (though unlike me, he's a poet ;-)). fantastic finish to the day.
Well, almost. earlier in the day after I found Wayan the healer down the same street as Bali Buddha, I was caught out in a rainstorm and took shelter in a nearby convenience store and fell instantly into conversation with the store clerk and an English lass called Leishea, and we were off. Throwing travel stories and tidbacks back and forth at warp speed, eventually finishing with a plan to meet later in the evening.
We continued where we left off over crispy duck at the Bebek Bengil restaurant, who let us stay on our cushions long after closing. Leishea was a solo female traveler as well, which are always refreshing to meet. She's on a longer trip through Southeast Asia and we swapped stories about the region, moaned about air conditioning and after being slightly creeped out by the 'security' guards we left, to a deserted street save for some dogs. One black dog followed us relentlessly, stopping when we did and mimicking our detours. Even after we hitched a ride with a random local on his moped the dog followed the moped and still circled the gates of Leishea's guesthouse! Hiding out there for a bit was the only thing that got rid of it, mind you it was replaced by a more placid looking dog. I wasn't fooled though by its froufrou appearance, but thankfully it lacked the persistence of its black dog counterpart. Kinda creepy...and only seems to happen late at night. I went home much earlier the following night....
03 August, 2010
Balinese Bliss and Bangkok Continued
The Khao san road area of Bangkok seems to inspire love or hate. I don't think in all the times I've gone there I've heard a middle of the road reaction. and for some like me, it wavers between the two. However, one thing I love is the randomness. The randomness that I could just be walking down the street, actually on my way to give this fish foot massage thingie a try (cos the massage I just had wasn't enough), and next thing I know I'm having sex on the beach with 2 nice English girls (the drink that is) which then leads to laughing and dancing with 3 more random Scotsmen.
The impetus behind all that was the guy who calls himself 'Mr. Thailand'. Mr. Thailand dresses in outlandish outfits including oversized sunglasses (even long after the sun has set) and is usually mounted on a pimped out bike belting out 'walk the line'. However I guess his role was different that evening as after a 30 second dance with him, I was sat down (as in he literally sat me down) at the table with Holly and Annie, who were more than gracious about the invasion, immediately introducing themselves. It was after some more comedic movement by Mr. Thailand that the 3 Scotsmen asked to join us and voila. a ready made evening. we checked out the club down below and did a bit of boogying until the fact i'd been up nearly 24 hrs - and had to be up in a few more to catch the next flight - hit me.
so a 3 hr nap and back to Suvarnabhumi it was, and I slept the better part of the way to Denpasar, and awoke to observing roadside Balinese life en route to Ubud, and was promptly checked into my guesthouse. My room is simple, the hot water isn't working, but for $13 i can't complain. I've got a great view, my own little terrace where breakfast is served and staff are friendly. The main guy Yande seems to get a kick out of calling me by my entire name and is exceptionally fond of high 5's and handshakes.
and thus, I set out on my mission here, which is not entirely that of other tourists. I've come here with healing and rejuvination in mind, with yoga and massage being an integral part of that. not that people don't come here for that, but i'm getting some strange looks when i mention i'm not interested in the monkey forest or driving around to rice patties. I did the tourist stuff last time, and really from my perspective...i see rice fields on an almost daily basis in Japan, and monkey forest could be another one of the many nicknames for my workplace. largely i've succeeded in my relaxation quest, practicing yoga in a gorgeous open air studio, massage in a beautiful spa and now am on the hunt for the healers - 'Eat, Pray, Love' strikes again and with any luck, I hope to find the same ones she had (yet for some reason right now the mission impossible theme is playing in my head...). Here goes nothing...
The impetus behind all that was the guy who calls himself 'Mr. Thailand'. Mr. Thailand dresses in outlandish outfits including oversized sunglasses (even long after the sun has set) and is usually mounted on a pimped out bike belting out 'walk the line'. However I guess his role was different that evening as after a 30 second dance with him, I was sat down (as in he literally sat me down) at the table with Holly and Annie, who were more than gracious about the invasion, immediately introducing themselves. It was after some more comedic movement by Mr. Thailand that the 3 Scotsmen asked to join us and voila. a ready made evening. we checked out the club down below and did a bit of boogying until the fact i'd been up nearly 24 hrs - and had to be up in a few more to catch the next flight - hit me.
so a 3 hr nap and back to Suvarnabhumi it was, and I slept the better part of the way to Denpasar, and awoke to observing roadside Balinese life en route to Ubud, and was promptly checked into my guesthouse. My room is simple, the hot water isn't working, but for $13 i can't complain. I've got a great view, my own little terrace where breakfast is served and staff are friendly. The main guy Yande seems to get a kick out of calling me by my entire name and is exceptionally fond of high 5's and handshakes.
and thus, I set out on my mission here, which is not entirely that of other tourists. I've come here with healing and rejuvination in mind, with yoga and massage being an integral part of that. not that people don't come here for that, but i'm getting some strange looks when i mention i'm not interested in the monkey forest or driving around to rice patties. I did the tourist stuff last time, and really from my perspective...i see rice fields on an almost daily basis in Japan, and monkey forest could be another one of the many nicknames for my workplace. largely i've succeeded in my relaxation quest, practicing yoga in a gorgeous open air studio, massage in a beautiful spa and now am on the hunt for the healers - 'Eat, Pray, Love' strikes again and with any luck, I hope to find the same ones she had (yet for some reason right now the mission impossible theme is playing in my head...). Here goes nothing...
01 August, 2010
One Night in Bangkok!
wow, it's been a while since I was here, and incidently last entry was also in this city. something keeps me coming back!
today was great, it's so good to be back here (tho there was another trip in between this and the last entry), if only for the fact i'm living in a place where one's excitement consists of watching grass grow and if another foreigner is spotted it's so rare i'm worse than the locals with the staring and pointing. Good thing I managed to drop that habit straight away cos there are tons of them around and my finger and eyes would get pretty tired. Anyway, nothing significant to write about here, just doing this as a reminder to myself to start writing again. It was however great to see Magnus in this part of the world again, and I was happy to get a taxi driver of the cheerful variety, cheerful enough even to laugh while telling me how bad it is the Bangkok BTS train will soon be running from the airport. Bad for him. I hid my smile and urge to punch the air saying 'yessss!!!'.
tomorrow morning even earlier to Bali, but not before a quick swim and massage. Receiving, not giving that is ;-)
today was great, it's so good to be back here (tho there was another trip in between this and the last entry), if only for the fact i'm living in a place where one's excitement consists of watching grass grow and if another foreigner is spotted it's so rare i'm worse than the locals with the staring and pointing. Good thing I managed to drop that habit straight away cos there are tons of them around and my finger and eyes would get pretty tired. Anyway, nothing significant to write about here, just doing this as a reminder to myself to start writing again. It was however great to see Magnus in this part of the world again, and I was happy to get a taxi driver of the cheerful variety, cheerful enough even to laugh while telling me how bad it is the Bangkok BTS train will soon be running from the airport. Bad for him. I hid my smile and urge to punch the air saying 'yessss!!!'.
tomorrow morning even earlier to Bali, but not before a quick swim and massage. Receiving, not giving that is ;-)
29 March, 2009
Summing up Southeast Asia 2009: An absolutely amazing 3 months of learning to live again
so here's me, in the final hours, being the small early morning ones waiting for my *lovely* 20 hour, change 2x flight back over the pacific. Guess I am stuck waiting in these hours cos I booked the cheapest ticket and you get what you pay for!
so, summing up - here goes, something I've never been good at, and am even worse at when in this moment of being on the verge of a big change AGAIN, etc, etc, but I try..
(Thailand) post new year carnage arrival in Bangkok, free tuk tuk ride followed by invite to tuk tuk party (um, no..), reuniting with Next in Khao Lak, Tsunami museum, Similan islands, beaches, crab-hunt, perfect meditation spot, singing Japanese song live at the bar, dancing latin dance on stage with random Mexican, Happy Snapper, Thai rock star, Finnish porn star, 'my precious' bucket, 'Boris and Natasha', mad Aussie boys, Lady boys (which were Thai, not aussie), gastroenteritis, Wat Po Massage massacre (err..school..), Cambodia border run rip off, Sheesha on the beach with the Swedes, Treehouse sunsets, being chatted up by various randoms, 'the other side', French connection 'Fry ink' Dutchman, crazy singing kayaking, beer for breakfast, chasing buses in Chonburi, One night in Bangkok, night train, diving with sea fishes, eating same at beach bbq after, mopeds and dodgy island roads, boats, boats, boats, dive, dive, dive, bbq, bbq, bbq, flaming skipping ropes
(Laos) 'are you going to Vientiane to shop for a husband? (first interaction with locals; asked by a Lao woman in tuk tuk from border as she used my THAI/English phrasebook...), Beerlao, deep red Mekong sunsets, lecherous local men (surely not the ones from the husband market, hah!), job offers - arrange contract signing - um, no don't want job (je ne veux pas travailler...) - arrange Vietnam visa and bus to Luang Prabang instead, Monk chat, horror night bus with kid puking and tarzan swinging to get into seat, Mekong cruise, buddha cave, 'Lao Lao', 'the other side of Luang Prabang', Moto-taxi driver/stalker 'do you want Lao boyfriend', the wish to head north, but..
(Vietnam) Motorbike madness, squirmy fish and chunky frogs, hyperactive temple minders/lost in translation, 'stylish' cafes, cyclos, elusive 'bia hoi', conical hats, Hoi An tailor made clothes addiction (contagious!), tomato roses and cucumber fans, random Mr. Trung tour, Vietnam boy band sings 'La Bamba', round boats, night bus, night bus, night bus, War remnants museum, Reunification Palace, Mekong Delta and Coconut candy, yum!
I won't miss:
- mozzies
- being an involuntary smoker (ie, inhaling all that of others)
- recurring gastroenteritis
- potentially being ripped off at every turn
- night transport
I will miss:
-coconuts
-the gorgeous weather
-sage-robed monks walking the street being a common, everyday occurrence
-temples and buddhas
-the sea
-the fish (seeing and eating, bad bad bad)
-fresh fruit, fresh fruit shakes, dragonfruit, starfruit, sapodilla, mango, oh the list goes on..
-not needing shoes
-bamboo
-coconut trees
-the absolute freedoms a solo traveler has at times
-beaches
-night transport
-sunlight
-the buzz of Bangkok and Saigon
-the peace of Vientiane
-the people!!!!!! including, but not limited to:
-'Next': although not someone new on this trip but rather from a trip many years ago. Thanks for all the travel arranging in Khao Lak and all the fun times!!! Though maybe next time no 7.30 boat trips the morning after that many big Singhas, ok? ok! hee hee
-Stefan and Christoph : the 2 people on the similans trip who actually socialized with me, and then bore witness to my stellar Japanese number in Khao Lak after. good times, good times!
-Malin: simply put, you just rock. One could not find a cooler chick to travel with
-'Boris and Natasha' (don't worry guys, I do know your real names, but I'm just uh..protecting your identity, hah!): shame my stomach had other plans and didn't allow me to meet you all in Phuket, but nonetheless nice to see you Khao Lak!
-Magnus: the victim of mine and Next's nationality guessing game. Good so, great meeting you in Khao Lak and sharing a shisha on Koh Chang!
-Nyi Nyi: totally spelled wrong, the great Burmese guy working at my place in Khao Lak. just an all round lovely person (see earlier entry) who went out of his way to help me, especially in times of gastro-crises and ensuring I caught my bus to Surat Thani.
- Wat Po Massage Crew!: Marco, sexy-italian-police-gogo boy, 'I almost failed for having too sexy hair' Yuko, Mushroom mama Yukiko, Hardcore drinking Hiroki, Ana, Otto..couldn't have asked for a better group
-Toom: good to see you after all those years, and thanks so much for all the travel arranging on the Bangkok side of things! hope to see you again soon too!
- Jenn: sooo glad to meet a non-Calgarian..Calgarian. great convo on that Cambodia bound bus, and lets keep each other sane in the homeland
-Obi wan Timobi! for keeping the force on ko Chang, on land, in the water, in the kayak..and being my first paying massage customer!
-Byron and Sarah, for the introductory evening in Vientiane
- Marnie, the great yoga teacher in Vientiane who not only brought me some inner peace, but job hunt tips which helped me make the informed decision I did
- Kheum, the monk I was priveleged to meet at the monk chat. 2 of the best hours spent on the entire trip
- Matt: could a more STYLISH person exist? I highly doubt it. Hopefully we can stylishly own another exotic city one day (um, ya, maybe Chicago counts for me?)
- Irene: who else would be so kind as to buy a random Vietnamese old man an ice cream, just cos she was eating one and he was standing there?
- Marcia: although she only joined us for one dinner in Hoi An, an exceptional lady in her 50's who'd come to Vietnam on her own to search for teaching work (hmm, sound familiar? hopefully she lacks my commitment phobicity though..)
- Cooking (with) Class! Terry, Lisa and again Irene, I thoroughly enjoyed, despite the fact your roses and fans were all better than mine
- Uri & Daniel: Para bailar La Bamba, Se necessita una poca de gracia! Thanks for the great spirit on that boat trip despite the rubbish weather! Of course with that great band, how could we not smile..
- Roberto: grazie, grazie mille per tutto (including that story about the americans on the NY - Dublin flight who thought they were part of the EU..)
- Tiffany: for the short but fulfilling convo in Ko Tao...
- Carmen: dive buddy number one! what a great day..
- Dan and Becca: more divers!
- Rosie, Annabel and Kieran: great to meet such a down to earth group of people where one might not otherwise find them (ie, the haad rin beach area). Made the 'munchies' day and fish bbq that night so much more enjoyable. we still should have commandeered that boat though..
and one side note on someone I actually did not have the fortune of meeting, but was rather told about by a girl who was on a Surin islands trip with this person: a lady, in her 70's called Betty. She is American, and retired from the foreign service, now living in Nepal. Never married, never had kids. why? 'no commitment'. kudos to her for living how she wanted. by the account I was given, she lives quite happily (and healthily) trekking the mountains of middle asia. I saw a photo of her and she looked about 10 years younger, at least..coincidence? I think not. I mention it only, because I always like to hear about those who zig while others zag. Even nowadays being so independent can be met with resistance, so I cannot imagine how it would have been for her.
Happy travels to all of you, and should you land in..well, wherever I may land, I welcome you!
all in all, this trip has been...a trip. I left Vienna last year running on empty, but I now return to the homeland, by choice (for now!) with fully charged batteries. I'm incredibly, incredibly blessed and lucky to have had this experience, and in the iconic words of Ahhhnold...'I'll be back'!
so, summing up - here goes, something I've never been good at, and am even worse at when in this moment of being on the verge of a big change AGAIN, etc, etc, but I try..
(Thailand) post new year carnage arrival in Bangkok, free tuk tuk ride followed by invite to tuk tuk party (um, no..), reuniting with Next in Khao Lak, Tsunami museum, Similan islands, beaches, crab-hunt, perfect meditation spot, singing Japanese song live at the bar, dancing latin dance on stage with random Mexican, Happy Snapper, Thai rock star, Finnish porn star, 'my precious' bucket, 'Boris and Natasha', mad Aussie boys, Lady boys (which were Thai, not aussie), gastroenteritis, Wat Po Massage massacre (err..school..), Cambodia border run rip off, Sheesha on the beach with the Swedes, Treehouse sunsets, being chatted up by various randoms, 'the other side', French connection 'Fry ink' Dutchman, crazy singing kayaking, beer for breakfast, chasing buses in Chonburi, One night in Bangkok, night train, diving with sea fishes, eating same at beach bbq after, mopeds and dodgy island roads, boats, boats, boats, dive, dive, dive, bbq, bbq, bbq, flaming skipping ropes
(Laos) 'are you going to Vientiane to shop for a husband? (first interaction with locals; asked by a Lao woman in tuk tuk from border as she used my THAI/English phrasebook...), Beerlao, deep red Mekong sunsets, lecherous local men (surely not the ones from the husband market, hah!), job offers - arrange contract signing - um, no don't want job (je ne veux pas travailler...) - arrange Vietnam visa and bus to Luang Prabang instead, Monk chat, horror night bus with kid puking and tarzan swinging to get into seat, Mekong cruise, buddha cave, 'Lao Lao', 'the other side of Luang Prabang', Moto-taxi driver/stalker 'do you want Lao boyfriend', the wish to head north, but..
(Vietnam) Motorbike madness, squirmy fish and chunky frogs, hyperactive temple minders/lost in translation, 'stylish' cafes, cyclos, elusive 'bia hoi', conical hats, Hoi An tailor made clothes addiction (contagious!), tomato roses and cucumber fans, random Mr. Trung tour, Vietnam boy band sings 'La Bamba', round boats, night bus, night bus, night bus, War remnants museum, Reunification Palace, Mekong Delta and Coconut candy, yum!
I won't miss:
- mozzies
- being an involuntary smoker (ie, inhaling all that of others)
- recurring gastroenteritis
- potentially being ripped off at every turn
- night transport
I will miss:
-coconuts
-the gorgeous weather
-sage-robed monks walking the street being a common, everyday occurrence
-temples and buddhas
-the sea
-the fish (seeing and eating, bad bad bad)
-fresh fruit, fresh fruit shakes, dragonfruit, starfruit, sapodilla, mango, oh the list goes on..
-not needing shoes
-bamboo
-coconut trees
-the absolute freedoms a solo traveler has at times
-beaches
-night transport
-sunlight
-the buzz of Bangkok and Saigon
-the peace of Vientiane
-the people!!!!!! including, but not limited to:
-'Next': although not someone new on this trip but rather from a trip many years ago. Thanks for all the travel arranging in Khao Lak and all the fun times!!! Though maybe next time no 7.30 boat trips the morning after that many big Singhas, ok? ok! hee hee
-Stefan and Christoph : the 2 people on the similans trip who actually socialized with me, and then bore witness to my stellar Japanese number in Khao Lak after. good times, good times!
-Malin: simply put, you just rock. One could not find a cooler chick to travel with
-'Boris and Natasha' (don't worry guys, I do know your real names, but I'm just uh..protecting your identity, hah!): shame my stomach had other plans and didn't allow me to meet you all in Phuket, but nonetheless nice to see you Khao Lak!
-Magnus: the victim of mine and Next's nationality guessing game. Good so, great meeting you in Khao Lak and sharing a shisha on Koh Chang!
-Nyi Nyi: totally spelled wrong, the great Burmese guy working at my place in Khao Lak. just an all round lovely person (see earlier entry) who went out of his way to help me, especially in times of gastro-crises and ensuring I caught my bus to Surat Thani.
- Wat Po Massage Crew!: Marco, sexy-italian-police-gogo boy, 'I almost failed for having too sexy hair' Yuko, Mushroom mama Yukiko, Hardcore drinking Hiroki, Ana, Otto..couldn't have asked for a better group
-Toom: good to see you after all those years, and thanks so much for all the travel arranging on the Bangkok side of things! hope to see you again soon too!
- Jenn: sooo glad to meet a non-Calgarian..Calgarian. great convo on that Cambodia bound bus, and lets keep each other sane in the homeland
-Obi wan Timobi! for keeping the force on ko Chang, on land, in the water, in the kayak..and being my first paying massage customer!
-Byron and Sarah, for the introductory evening in Vientiane
- Marnie, the great yoga teacher in Vientiane who not only brought me some inner peace, but job hunt tips which helped me make the informed decision I did
- Kheum, the monk I was priveleged to meet at the monk chat. 2 of the best hours spent on the entire trip
- Matt: could a more STYLISH person exist? I highly doubt it. Hopefully we can stylishly own another exotic city one day (um, ya, maybe Chicago counts for me?)
- Irene: who else would be so kind as to buy a random Vietnamese old man an ice cream, just cos she was eating one and he was standing there?
- Marcia: although she only joined us for one dinner in Hoi An, an exceptional lady in her 50's who'd come to Vietnam on her own to search for teaching work (hmm, sound familiar? hopefully she lacks my commitment phobicity though..)
- Cooking (with) Class! Terry, Lisa and again Irene, I thoroughly enjoyed, despite the fact your roses and fans were all better than mine
- Uri & Daniel: Para bailar La Bamba, Se necessita una poca de gracia! Thanks for the great spirit on that boat trip despite the rubbish weather! Of course with that great band, how could we not smile..
- Roberto: grazie, grazie mille per tutto (including that story about the americans on the NY - Dublin flight who thought they were part of the EU..)
- Tiffany: for the short but fulfilling convo in Ko Tao...
- Carmen: dive buddy number one! what a great day..
- Dan and Becca: more divers!
- Rosie, Annabel and Kieran: great to meet such a down to earth group of people where one might not otherwise find them (ie, the haad rin beach area). Made the 'munchies' day and fish bbq that night so much more enjoyable. we still should have commandeered that boat though..
and one side note on someone I actually did not have the fortune of meeting, but was rather told about by a girl who was on a Surin islands trip with this person: a lady, in her 70's called Betty. She is American, and retired from the foreign service, now living in Nepal. Never married, never had kids. why? 'no commitment'. kudos to her for living how she wanted. by the account I was given, she lives quite happily (and healthily) trekking the mountains of middle asia. I saw a photo of her and she looked about 10 years younger, at least..coincidence? I think not. I mention it only, because I always like to hear about those who zig while others zag. Even nowadays being so independent can be met with resistance, so I cannot imagine how it would have been for her.
Happy travels to all of you, and should you land in..well, wherever I may land, I welcome you!
all in all, this trip has been...a trip. I left Vienna last year running on empty, but I now return to the homeland, by choice (for now!) with fully charged batteries. I'm incredibly, incredibly blessed and lucky to have had this experience, and in the iconic words of Ahhhnold...'I'll be back'!
The Final Countdown: Blowing it all out in Thai Paradise
Return to bangkok, ko tao, ko phangan, dive dive dive, boats boats and more boats but no bloody sharks. only snappers. in the sea and on the grill...
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