Bocas del Toro 101 (or Bocas del Toro for dummies)

not surprisingly, I did get slightly ripped off by *little friendly* George on that boat tour - but thankfully as I was far from being alone there, I feel much better about it. I mean, I did get the tour, but for more money than the others paid and of course yer man there has buggered off into oblivion, but should i see him again it will not exactly be a pleasant encounter.

Although to be fair, not that it really mattered; on the tour I met Shawn and Nicole, 2 Americans who had gone through a shop (Jampon) and didn´t get what they were promised either. Basically we were put into another boat with 6 people who had it basically set up for themselves, and we were just along for the ride. However we did manage to get to Cayo Zapatilla for a few hours, and that was what I really wanted to see in any case, but I have to say the whole thing was rather disorganised, and of course they did the whole thing of dropping us off at a restaraunt along the way, which of course had prices to rival those of my favourite restaraunts in Vienna. At least whatever the heat did to my brain to make me make such bad travel decisions (chuh, you'd think I was some kind of newbie...insert embarrased face), seemed to have worn off, and Shawn and Nicole had been thikning along the same lines and we had stocked up at the supermarket the day before. So rather than a severely overpriced dish of shrimp, I spent a mere few dollars for a sandwich, fruit, juice and sweets. We knew it was a total trap when they tried to charge us for sitting at the table! We had also gone to one of the stops, and the larger group was asked if they wanted to get out...they said no, but the rest of us were not consulted. as the highest paying member of the group, I should have had the ultimate decision making authority, but I know all too well the world does not work that way...

All we could really do at this stage was laugh about it..the restaraunt stop was not a complete waste though, we got into conversation with Kurt, an American who owned a fishing lodge in Alaska, and he had some good stories about that and driving here in Panama...and how he screwed up some questions and ended up paying an exorbitant fine. Guess even the most savvy of us make mistakes now and again.

Also met Norm and Noel on the beach, 2 fisherman with whom I shared some drinks with later that night and we attempted to have a party night, but it was completely dead! Guess all the local working folk had finished playing and absconded back to Panama City. huh. Guess I will have to sort out some partying there!!!

But OK. so given some of these experiences I have wised up a bit. the accom..I can do nothing about it. so I will just enjoy and not worry. For future reference, when sucked in by sea view, etc. will pay only one night at a time and go night to night as is normal here. Had I done that I could have booked into Casa Max, a characteristic little Dutch owned establishment that Shawn and Nicole are raving about. Also after a stop at Mondu Taitu bar last night, I'd found the atmosphere quite cliquey and Shawn and Nicole, who had actually stayed there, echoed the same. although I guess that is hostels for you; its hit or miss with the crowds. but sometimes you can just get that feeling...its sister hostel, Heike, seemed like it would be the superior option and I wish I had booked in there, or managed to get something at Casa Max as well. To know for next time...

2. people. I KNOW better than to trust them, I KNOW that I am an easy target, especially with full luggage and lonely planet in hand...I also KNOW that I should be a lot firmer and tell these people to bugger off (although the less polite version of that) and I KNOW that i should shop around (I am waiting for a report on the J & J excursion some folks at my place had done, but I am sure they got what they were promised!). without knowing excursion prices, I should not have booked something.

Today I went with Shawn and Nicole to Red Frog beach. Initially I was reluctant to do this, but I read in old faithful (Lonely planet) the cost should be $10, so I just refused to pay anymore. And after passing by Boca Marine and Tours, found a boatman who would take me for just that. So Shawn, who is perpetually followed by these dodgy local guys, and Nicole joined me. We paid half the fee upfront, and half on the return leg. We were picked up almost dead on time. the boatman, Juan, was not resistant to that at all and was friendly enough, so I can recommend that place if anyone needs transport around this area.

And it was really a perfect, lovely day, exactly what I came here for. It was short walk along a jungle path, which also cost $2...they get you for everything, but whatever..along the way a little girl showed us one of the strawberry poison dart frogs, from which the beach derived its name, and we were half expecting her to ask for some money for that as well! But she didnt and I was quite glad i finally got to see one of the famed frogs.

as for the beach itself...blue Carribean sea lapping up on sandy shores framed by coconut trees. We also timed it well that we had it almost to ourselves and buggered off as the crowds arrived.

Tomorrow, I will see my last beach here, Boca del Drago, and take the $2 shuttle..I asked the driver today for the times and the rates and he was friendly enough as well. the times mean a couple hours beach time and returning in time to shower up before flying to my final destination. little planes again, hurrah!!!

So. last lesson, numero tres - avoid the boat area and the boatmen between the Police station and Tropic Suites. They are nothing but a bunch of disorganised cowboys, who (pardon the use of this expression in this context) could not find water if they fell off a boat. Also avoid Jampon Tours just down the way. Better off to go with Boca Marine or J & J.

As for anything else...there is a place not listed in the guidebook, called 'Golden Grill'. its an almost sterile sort of American diner type place, but dead cheap..pancakes for a dollar and a half. Not idealistic but folk always seem to be there and the food's not bad if you're on a budget and tired of the fried chicken or meat on a stick....

OK, the sunset is calling...