Miss Saigon (and Mekong Delta)

So being on the local bus from Ninh Hoa meant that I would arrive a proper bus station, rather than setting down straight in the centre of the backpacker ghetto. Coming from a northerly direction that meant arriving at Mien Dong bus station (Ben Xe Mien Dong), which isn't the most conveniently located place, but nothing too horrific. Although admittedly, I must say it was not my favourite activity, arriving at 4am, knowing public transport won't run until around 6, and even if it did..the guesthouse receptions were likely not open anyway. Sit in the terminal on a proper seat, or on the street. tough call....

So I watched the comings and goings of people under the glaring fluorescents and was soon approached for conversation by a local man. Of course, being tired, hungry and dehydrated (yup, when traveling that many hours on a bus with no toilet, best not be emptying the giant water bottles I reckon), it amplified my paranoia that this was a distraction to rob me. Must have picked up paranoia by osmosis from my friend Davina, for whom it has been a major life feature since being interrogated by both Japanese and American immigration officials. anyway, totally irrelevant tangent.

In the end the paranoia was all for nought. The man came from Da Lat. Told me it was a good romantic place to visit for couples, and I thought, but did not say, thank god I gave that a miss - I prefer social environments, generally given rise to with groups and solo travelers. And really the only thing he wanted was to practice speaking English. Fair play, I know that lessons don't come cheap and that I'm more than willing to offer. He also showed me which bus to take (number 26 if memory serves to go to the Ben Tranh Market in the centre), told me the cost (3000 Dong), and he actually walked with me out to it to show me, verified cost and destination with the driver and saw me off. So yeah, at times it can be difficult to find the balance between letting your guard down and being open to experiences and exercising a certain degree of caution.

Be aware though; some people still try to get money any which way they can, and in this case it was charging me an extra full fare for my luggage, despite the bus never became anywhere near being full. after this they also insisted that i not store it on a seat. Well, as far as I was concerned, the bag had paid for a seat so it was getting one (just made it easier for me to make a quick exit when the time came). Then I'm reasonably certain I overpaid a xe om driver, judging only from the fact he was too nice. well, and it wasn't that far but arguing over a few thousand Dong at that point..not worth it.

I'd booked myself for the following night into a place called Phan Lan Guesthouse, which was right in the Pham Ngu area (aka Backpackers ghetto, Saigon's own Khao San road!). The reason I had done that was, well, well-intentioned. I had a plan to, rock up there in the morningon the day before, hope they would let me store my luggage, head back to the bus station, get a bus to any town on the Mekong Delta, and then search for an overnight homestay. However, as I grew more and more weary on my nightbus, I realised this was probably not a good idea; as I also know, I do'nt sleep well on them and usually the first thing I need is a few more hours in bed to top up to the night's sleep quota. and how would i enjoy the Delta if the one thign I wanted to do was sleep? so I figured a day trip would be a better option, and that would give me time in Saigon to suss one out, as well as take my requisite nap. Good plan.

Thankfully Phan Lan (which actually has 2 locations in the area) had a room for me that night as well. though the poor chap had just woken (it was around 6:30 am!) and was confused about what I wanted, he managed it in the end, and said I would be staying at their second location, which I was happy about as it was hidden in an alleyway, ie, quiet. He rung them up and they were waiting for me, also groggy eyed, and if I thought Vienna was bad...I had a room here on the 5th floor. No lift. Well worth it though, there was a pretty little terrace up there that afforded some nice views over Saigon..sunset, or sunrise. The staff here were generally quite friendly as well and take notice of you (note for all those who end up staying out all night, as yes, they will worry..)...I crashed for 3 hours and then went off on the hunt for a good day tour to the Mekong. Most were in the $10 - 20 range, though I hadn't wante to go with the absolute cheapeast. After all, you get what you pay for. I did find one that was perfect and had everything I wanted, but at $55 was a bit steep. And, once I justified it to myself, ended up being unable to go anyway as there were no other takers. minimum of 2. uff.

No worries however; saved myself a bit of cash and booked through my guesthouse for $20. they were off at the beginning - late pickup, seeming totally disorganized - then i was most unimpressed at being made to sit in a minivan for other people's pickups..ie, an old bickering Australian couple who stuck me in the middle of it..only to have minivan one hour later pull up to leave us at bus - 2 blocks from my hotel! grr. grr. That could have been an extra hour of sleep.

Anyway, once the bus left it was all rectified. Still I was stuck by the bickering couple, but popped my sunnies on and feigned (well, and a bit for real) sleep. Seriously, I cannot understand why even go on the holiday if all you area going to do is fight and complain, and congratulated myself on being single. It continued for the rest of the day, but thankfully I found solace with Roberto, another solo traveler from Italy and 2 Austrian lasses and had a fantastic day. For whatever disorganization they had off the start, they made up for it brilliantly. the guide was hilarious, and the rest of the day was streamline smooth. We took in things like fresh honey, banana schnapps (well, they called it wine, but..that was questionable with the appearance of the shot glasses) and locally made coconut candy in Ben Tre. We took bikes through the village and had numerous school children calling out 'hello!' to us. We also took a boat back to Saigon, which was much more peaceful, and one of those perfect moments sailing along outside, observing water life and for me, conversing in French with a family from France. Things could not have been any better!!! But..total bonus...I saw durian trees for the first time! Who would have thought durians could grow on trees? they are so big!

and maybe that planted the idea that, en route 'home' with Roberto, and running randomly into Irene of Hoi An fame on the street, we should go for ice cream! Of course to the place that was meant to have good durian flavour ice cream. It's called 'Fanny's'. Roberto went with a safe option, whereas Irene and I took the more exotic flavours of durian and chilli chocolate. We organized to meet for dinner later as well (a bit backwards, which I trust was my influence) and at Robertos suggestion, hit up a bbq place where they cook the food in front of you - Fab night. One could not have asked for a better day.

Unfortunately, I cannot recall the name of the tour company I went through - sometimes you book through one place, but its another operating it, etc, etc....but if you go to Phan Lan Guesthouse and book through them it ought to be the same one ($20US).

The next day was a short one owing to my scheduled flight back to Bangkok. Having been entranced by the rooftop pool at the Rennaissance Riverside, I'd decided to go there and have a bit of fitness, followed by lounging out at the pool. a slight bit of luxury ;-). To refill my stomach though, I returned to backpacker ghetto and hit up Pho 24 for one last quick noodle soup (yum!) and Sozo, the bakery cafe on Bui Vien - who make great cookies, cakes and coffee and have a program to train and employ those from disadvantaged backgrounds. They do a damn good job of it; the service was fantastic. Despite being served the wrong coffee they changed it immediately. The fellow who waited on me was deaf and wrote his apologies on a note, in English. I replied that it was not necessary, and his English was excellent. He was very thankful in the end. Highly recommended.

And with that I paid my final $9 US in Vietnam to a taxi and followed the signs 'Back to the Beginning' (as in, flew to my original landing point, Bangkok).

Saigon and Mekong Delta - 2 thumbs up (well, 3 if i had that many).